Everyone knows about Noma. The Nordic fine-dining restaurant dares(敢于，胆敢) diners to spoon brains from smoked ducks’ heads or eat salads crawling with snails. Since its founding in 2003, Noma has been through umpteen incarnations, from its Copenhagen restaurant (which has relocated once and closed twice) to residencies in Los Angeles and Tokyo.(自2003年创立以来，诺玛经历了无数次变身，从哥本哈根的餐厅到洛杉矶和东京的驻场。) On August 5th Noma reopened at its previous site in Copenhagen.
人人都知道诺玛。这家北欧高级餐厅敢于让食客用勺子从烟熏鸭头中舀出脑髓，或吃爬满蜗牛的沙拉。自2003年创立以来，诺玛经历了无数次变身，从哥本哈根的餐厅（曾搬迁一次、关闭两次）到洛杉矶和东京的驻场。8月5日，诺玛在哥本哈根的原址重新开业。
Despite all this travelling, most turbulence(动荡，骚乱) has been inside the kitchen. In March the New York Times published allegations that René Redzepi (pictured top), the head chef, had abused staff between 2009 and 2017, as Noma chased its third Michelin star.(今年3月，《纽约时报》发表指控称，主厨雷内·雷泽皮在2009年至2017年间虐待员工，当时诺玛正在追逐其第三颗米其林星。) (Mr Redzepi said he did not “recognise all [the] details” in the article, but was “deeply sorry” and has “worked to change”.) Noma has reopened without any Michelin star(米其林星级，餐饮界最高荣誉)s or its star chef. Mr Redzepi is “creative director”, not the man at the pass(出菜口的主厨，掌控厨房的人).
尽管经历了这些搬迁，最大的动荡其实发生在厨房内部。今年3月，《纽约时报》发表指控称，主厨雷内·雷泽皮（上图）在2009年至2017年间虐待员工，当时诺玛正在追逐其第三颗米其林星。（雷泽皮先生表示，他并不“认同文章中的所有细节”，但“深感抱歉”，并已“努力改变”。）诺玛重新开业时，既没有米其林星，也没有其明星主厨。雷泽皮先生现在是“创意总监”，而不是站在出菜口的那个人。
Rock-star chefs were once indulged(纵容，迁就). In the 1990s and 2000s people were hungry for macho(大男子气概的) cooks: Marco Pierre White, an English chef, dumped his underlings(下属，手下) in rubbish bins for “time out(暂停，冷静一下)”; Gordon Ramsay(戈登·拉姆齐，英国名厨) became famous for losing his temper and calling people things like “idiot sandwich”. Anthony Bourdain’s book, “Kitchen Confidential”, portrayed chefs as miscreants(无赖，恶棍). Yet somehow cheffing seemed glamorous(迷人的，富有魅力的).
明星主厨曾一度受到纵容。在20世纪90年代和21世纪初，人们渴望有男子气概的厨师：英国厨师马可·皮埃尔·怀特曾把下属扔进垃圾桶让他们“冷静一下”；戈登·拉姆齐因发脾气和骂人“白痴三明治”而闻名。安东尼·波登的《厨房机密》一书将厨师描绘成无赖。然而不知为何，当厨师似乎很迷人。
