
Everyone remembered the dress. It was a floor-length crystal-beaded sheath(紧身连衣裙), slinky(贴身性感的) and tight as fish-scales, fitting perfectly to every curve(完美贴合每一道曲线) of the body of Marilyn Monroe. It was in this that she stood, sparkling in the spotlights, in Madison Square Garden in 1962 to sing “Happy Birthday, Mr President” to John F. Kennedy on his 45th.(正是穿着这条裙子,她站在1962年麦迪逊广场花园的聚光灯下,为肯尼迪总统45岁生日献唱《生日快乐,总统先生》。) Her voice was light and shy. Not many in the audience were attending to her voice.
所有人都记得那条裙子。那是一条及地的水晶珠绣紧身裙,如鱼鳞般贴身而性感,完美勾勒出玛丽莲·梦露身体的每一道曲线。1962年,她正是穿着这条裙子,在麦迪逊广场花园的聚光灯下熠熠生辉,为约翰·F·肯尼迪45岁生日献唱《生日快乐,总统先生》。她的嗓音轻柔而羞怯。但观众席上没多少人在意她的歌声。
The dress had been made by someone else, but the original thought, and the sketch on paper, had come from Bob Mackie. He was in his first job in Hollywood, as a costume designer to the stars. Already, though, he knew what he wanted. His clothes had to proclaim(宣告、张扬) the personality of the wearer, or of the character they played, as loudly as possible. It didn’t matter what it was for, but who and why. If there was a sinuous(蜿蜒的、曲线优美的) shape, accentuate(凸显、强调) it. If there was lovely smooth skin, show it. Scatter the sparkles everywhere. His motto was “Dare to be noticed(敢于被看见)”.
这条裙子由他人制作,但最初的构思和纸上的草图都出自鲍勃·麦基之手。当时他刚在好莱坞找到第一份工作,为明星设计戏服。然而,他早已清楚自己想要什么。他的服装必须尽可能响亮地宣告穿着者——或他们所扮演角色——的个性。为的是什么场合并不重要,重要的是为谁、为何。若有曼妙曲线,就凸显它;若有光滑美肌,就展露它;把闪光撒遍全身。他的座右铭是“敢于被看见”。
Plenty of stars, almost all of them women, did dare to wear a “Mackie”, and their costumes too stayed in the mind. There was the “naked illusion dress”, sheer(透明的、极薄的) net with a scattering of silver sequin(亮片)s and white feathers at forearms and fetlock(脚踝(马匹的球节))s, worn by Cher to a Met Gala(纽约大都会艺术博物馆慈善晚宴) in 1974. Four years later came the flame dress, a wild, sparse, bugle-beaded(缀满长管珠的) number that licked all round her body(如火焰般舔舐全身). For Tina Turner, after her split with Ike, he designed a silver-and-gold chain-fringed body suit with pleated gold-lamé escape-wings.(蒂娜·特纳与艾克分手后,麦基为她设计了一件银金链条流苏紧身连体衣,配有金色金属丝百褶“逃生之翼”。)
许多明星——几乎全是女性——确实敢于穿上“麦基”设计,她们的戏服同样令人难忘。1974年,雪儿穿着那件“裸色幻觉裙”出席大都会艺术博物馆慈善晚宴,裙子是透明网纱,零星点缀着银色亮片,前臂和脚踝处饰有白色羽毛。四年后,火焰裙问世,那是一件狂野、稀疏、缀满长管珠的裙子,仿佛火焰舔舐她的全身。蒂娜·特纳与艾克分手后,麦基为她设计了一件银金链条流苏紧身连体衣,配有金色金属丝百褶“逃生之翼”。