HOW MANY cockroaches is an acceptable number of cockroaches in a commercial kitchen? Readers of this column, by definition(按定义，理所当然) a discerning(有眼光的，挑剔的) lot, would no doubt set the limit at zero. The Bombay High Court, however, took the view that the “solitary finding” of two bugs was insufficient reason for the food-safety regulator to shut down a kitchen.(然而，孟买高等法院认为，仅仅发现两只虫子，不足以成为食品安全监管机构关停一家厨房的理由。) “We are in India, we have to take a realistic stand,” the court’s acting chief justice caution(告诫，提醒)ed officials in July.
一家商业厨房里出现多少只蟑螂才算可以接受？本专栏的读者按定义都是眼光挑剔的人，无疑会把上限设为零。然而，孟买高等法院认为，仅“孤零零地发现”两只虫子，不足以成为食品安全监管机构关停一家厨房的理由。今年7月，该院代理首席大法官告诫官员：“我们是在印度，必须采取现实的立场。”
Tukaram Mundhe disagrees. “These laws are Indian, not foreign,” says the man who, six months ago, was put in charge of enforcing them. The laws are meant for Indian conditions, he adds. They are drafted by Indian experts. And it is Indian people who implement them. The problem is “we have a very low estimate about ourselves,” he says. “Our thought process is ‘chalta hai’,” a Hindi phrase that means “it’ll do” or “good enough” and that is seen by many, including Narendra Modi, as an attitude that holds India back.(“我们的思维过程就是‘chalta hai’。”这是一个印地语短语，意思是“凑合行”或“差不多就行”，包括纳伦德拉·莫迪在内的许多人都认为，这种态度拖了印度的后腿。) That is what Mr Mundhe wants to change.
图卡拉姆·蒙德不同意。六个月前，他被任命负责执行这些法律。“这些法律是印度的，不是外国的，”他说。他补充道，这些法律是为印度国情量身定制的，由印度专家起草，而且执行它们的也是印度人。问题在于“我们对自己的评价非常低，”他说。“我们的思维过程就是‘chalta hai’。”这是一个印地语短语，意思是“凑合行”或“差不多就行”，包括纳伦德拉·莫迪在内的许多人都认为，这种态度拖了印度的后腿。而这正是蒙德先生想要改变的。
Until a few months ago not many people in Maharashtra(印度西部富裕邦，首府孟买), a prosperous(富裕的，繁荣的) western state with Mumbai as its capital, had heard of its Food and Drug Administration (FDA). That changed with the appointment of Mr Mundhe in May. Suddenly the FDA’s people were everywhere. They turned up stomach-churning(令人作呕的) violations ranging from vermin(害虫，鼠虫) infestations and fungal growth on walls to expired food and poor handling in the kitchens of some of Mumbai’s best-known eateries and poshest private clubs. Even two canteens at the Bombay High Court were shut down for lacking licences. Tall, strapping(身材高大健壮的) and suitably mustachioed, Mr Mundhe quickly became a folk hero.
直到几个月前，马哈拉施特拉邦——一个以孟买为首府的富裕西部邦——还没有多少人听说过它的食品与药物管理局（FDA）。今年5月蒙德先生上任后，情况变了。突然间，FDA的人员无处不在。他们在孟买一些最知名的餐馆和最豪华的私人俱乐部的厨房里，查出了令人作呕的违规行为，从鼠虫滋生、墙壁长霉，到食品过期、处理不当，不一而足。就连孟买高等法院的两个食堂也因缺少执照而被关停。蒙德先生身材高大、体格健壮、留着恰到好处的八字胡，很快成了民间英雄。