Good morning. I could mark the phases of my life through my charity shop purchases: the tweedy(粗花呢的；穿粗花呢的) jackets of my student days, the nearly new hiking boots (a tenner(十英镑纸币)!) I bought out of necessity(出于必要) when I first arrived back in Scotland, the battered(破旧的；饱经风霜的) guitar now re-strung(重新换弦) for my son to practise Nirvana’s About a Girl(涅槃乐队的歌曲《About a Girl》).
早上好。我可以用自己在慈善商店的购物经历来标记人生的各个阶段：学生时代的粗花呢夹克、初回苏格兰时出于需要买下的近乎全新的登山靴（才十英镑！），以及那把破旧吉他——如今已重新换弦，供儿子练习涅槃乐队的《About a Girl》。
Since they became a fixture(固定存在的事物) of high streets after the second world war, charity shops have rolled with the punches(顺应形势，灵活应对) of wider retail trends. In the 80s, they were showered with(大量给予) tax breaks(税收减免) to take up vacant space as supermarkets put grocers and butchers out of business. At the end of the noughties(零零年代（2000-2009）), after the global financial crash, retail legend Mary Portas(玛丽·波塔斯，英国零售业专家) promoted charity shops as a vehicle(工具，手段) for reviving the high street. And as awareness grows of the planetary(全球的；行星的) penalty of throwaway(一次性的，可丢弃的) textiles, next month heralds(预示，宣布) Second Hand September(二手九月，乐施会年度活动), Oxfam’s annual campaign to highlight fashion’s environmental damage.
自二战后成为商业街的固定景观以来，慈善商店一直顺应更广泛的零售趋势，灵活应对各种冲击。80年代，随着超市挤垮了杂货店和肉铺，慈善商店获得了大量税收减免，以填补空置店面。在“零零年代”末全球金融危机之后，零售业传奇人物玛丽·波塔斯将慈善商店作为重振商业街的载体加以推广。随着人们对一次性纺织品给地球带来代价的认识不断提高，下个月将迎来“二手九月”——乐施会一年一度的活动，旨在凸显时尚产业对环境造成的破坏。
But recent headlines about shop closures – including the potential closure of 100 Oxfam outlets(门店，销售点) – and sustained(持续的) pressures from the boom in(…的繁荣) secondhand selling online suggest a deeper crisis in the sector(行业，部门). For today’s newsletter, I spoke to Vicki Burnett, a charity retail expert who has volunteered(做志愿者) in charity shops since the age of 15, about why community is key to the sector’s continued success. That’s after the headlines.
但近期关于店铺关闭的新闻——包括乐施会可能关闭100家门店——以及线上二手销售热潮带来的持续压力，表明该行业正面临更深层的危机。在今天的通讯中，我采访了慈善零售专家维基·伯内特，她从15岁起就在慈善商店做志愿者，我们聊了为什么社区是该行业持续成功的关键。这些内容在头条新闻之后。
Five big stories
五大要闻
In depth: ‘With the glut of fast fashion quality donations have reduced’
深度报道：“快时尚泛滥，捐赠物品质量下降”
What else we’ve been enjoying
我们还在欣赏什么
Sport
体育
Something for the weekend
周末推荐
The front pages
头版
The Latest
最新消息
Cartoon of the day | Rebecca Hendin
每日漫画 | 丽贝卡·亨丁
The Upside
积极面
Bored at work?
工作无聊？