
Not much is happening in the tiny Norfolk hamlet(小村庄) of Little Hautbois on the day I visit. The pub, once popular with airmen from RAF Coltishall(英国皇家空军科尔蒂肖尔基地), stopped being a pub a long time ago, even before RAF Coltishall stopped being RAF Coltishall. It’s not Saturday, so there are no weddings at Hautbois Hall. Nor is it 19 May, so the restless, headless ghost of Thomas Boleyn isn’t driving his carriage across the bridge over the River Bure, as he is said to do on the anniversary of the execution of his daughter, Anne.(那天也不是5月19日,所以托马斯·博林那不安分的无头鬼魂没有赶着马车驶过布尔河上的桥——据说在女儿安妮被处决的周年纪念日,他总会这样做。) Today, a lovely autumn one, all is as it should be.
我到访那天,诺福克郡的小村庄小欧特博伊斯没什么动静。那家曾深受皇家空军科尔蒂肖尔基地飞行员喜爱的酒馆,很久以前就不再是酒馆了,甚至比皇家空军科尔蒂肖尔基地停止存在还要早。那天不是星期六,所以欧特博伊斯庄园没有婚礼。那天也不是5月19日,所以托马斯·博林那不安分的无头鬼魂没有赶着马车驶过布尔河上的桥——据说在女儿安妮被处决的周年纪念日,他总会这样做。那天是个美好的秋日,一切都本该如此。
But half a mile down a narrow country lane is an incongruous and baffling sight: a strip of gentle hillside made up of large white rectangular blocks, piled up and sparkling in the sunshine.(但沿着一条狭窄的乡间小路走半英里,就会看到一幅格格不入、令人困惑的景象:一片平缓的山坡上,堆满了巨大的白色长方形块状物,在阳光下闪闪发光。) A glacier, you might think, if you were in Norway rather than Norfolk. (And ice is involved, as it happens.) As you get nearer, the picture becomes clearer; the blocks have coil(盘管;线圈)s on one face, doors and handles on the opposite one, plus the manufacturers’ names. It’s a glacier of fridges, more than 3,000 of them.
但沿着一条狭窄的乡间小路走半英里,就会看到一幅格格不入、令人困惑的景象:一片平缓的山坡上,堆满了巨大的白色长方形块状物,在阳光下闪闪发光。你可能会以为那是冰川——如果你身处挪威而非诺福克的话。(碰巧,这里确实涉及冰。)走近一看,画面更清晰了;这些块状物一面有盘管,另一面有门和把手,还有制造商的名称。这是一座冰箱冰川,超过3000台。
Kate Murrell, the assistant director of waste management at Norfolk county council, is here to let me in. The fridges are surrounded by a security fence with CCTV cameras. “It’s not what we want to see here, or what the local residents want to see either,” says Murrell. The nearest local resident, Stuart Brown, tells me over his garden fence that it is “a bit of an eyesore(有点碍眼)”.
诺福克郡议会废物管理助理主任凯特·默雷尔来这里给我开门。冰箱堆周围围着带闭路电视摄像头的安全围栏。“这不是我们想在这里看到的,也不是当地居民想看到的,”默雷尔说。最近的当地居民斯图尔特·布朗隔着自家花园围栏告诉我,这“有点大煞风景”。