No discerning(有鉴赏力的) dinner party host in England would dream of(做梦也不会想到) serving their guests a traditional English ham. You might find jamón ibérico, of which Spain is so proud, but never stuffed chine, a shoulder cut of salted pork marbled(带有大理石纹的) with parsley, once a delicacy(美味佳肴) in Lincolnshire. It sometimes seems as if the English middle classes are so concerned with other countries’ proud artisanal products that they miss the potential of our own.(有时似乎英国中产阶级太关注其他国家引以为傲的手工产品，以至于忽略了我们自己的潜力。)
在英国，任何一位有品位的晚宴主人做梦都不会给客人端上传统的英国火腿。你可能会看到西班牙引以为傲的伊比利亚火腿，但绝不会见到填馅猪肩肉——一种用欧芹点缀的盐渍猪肩肉，曾是林肯郡的美味。有时似乎英国中产阶级太关注其他国家引以为傲的手工产品，以至于忽略了我们自己的潜力。
We’re more likely to find cookery writers and experts in nutrition advocate(提倡、拥护) for Japanese foods than traditional English fare(食物、饭菜). The Chinese diet, too, has its passionate advocates in England. We barely need to mention the English middle classes’ long love affair(迷恋、热衷) with France and Italy and Spain.
我们更可能看到烹饪作家和营养专家推崇日本食物，而不是传统英国菜。中国饮食在英国也有热情拥护者。更不用说英国中产阶级对法国、意大利和西班牙的长期迷恋了。
Many well-to-do(富裕的) English eaters project ideals of rustic(乡村的、质朴的) authenticity(真实性、正宗) on to southern Europe, giving us the “modern European” cooking that has dominated the menus of many smart restaurants in England for decades. Yet perhaps this culinary(烹饪的) culture is running out of road? Is it not a little dull to see aioli(蒜泥蛋黄酱), burrata(布拉塔奶酪) and fresh pasta almost everywhere? What happened to salad cream and whitebait(银鱼) and pickled herring and steamed puddings? Where did all the bath buns(巴斯小圆面包) and sally lunns(萨莉伦面包) go? Are croissants really all we want from our bakeries? When did England’s middle classes fall out of love with(不再喜欢) English food?
许多富裕的英国食客把对质朴正宗的理想投射到南欧，造就了“现代欧洲”烹饪，这种烹饪几十年来主导了英国许多高档餐厅的菜单。但也许这种烹饪文化已经走到尽头？几乎到处都能看到蒜泥蛋黄酱、布拉塔奶酪和新鲜意面，难道不有点无聊吗？沙拉酱、银鱼、腌鲱鱼和蒸布丁都去哪儿了？巴斯小圆面包和萨莉伦面包都消失了吗？可颂真的是我们想从面包店得到的全部吗？英国中产阶级是什么时候不再爱英国食物的？